FEDERAL WAY, Wash. — At Theary Cambodian Foods in Federal Way, there's no shortage of steps to making a good dish.
"When you say it's enough, that's when we know it's not enough,” laughed chef and owner Theary Ngeth. “When we make food, we're looking for delicious - meaning we will put in whatever extra that we need to."
Each of the many ingredients adds balance, texture and scrumptious alchemy.
But Ngeth’s effortlessly cheerful service and vibrant plates bely her own story of survival.
She was a child when the brutal Khmer Rouge attacked her village. Like roughly one million other Cambodians, she and her family fled and walked hundreds of miles to safety in Thailand.
"We lost two of my brothers, and then me and my other brother, we got really sick,” Ngeth said. "The culture, the country, everything (was gone). Our memories."
But Ngeth also believes food can be restorative.
After immigrating to America, her mother cooked all the meals for community events. As a teenager, Ngeth resented being asked to help. But as an adult, she realized the power of what she learned.
“By eating her food and seeing her preparation, somehow it's in my DNA,” she said. "What I have seen and learned from my mom is what I offer here."
Her small restaurant specializes in the big flavors of traditional dishes dating back generations - long before the Khmer Rouge.
The base for most of her menu is the ancient spice blend kroeung.
"It's important because that's the Khmer national ingredient, and it's made by my ancestors and believed to be medicinal, so we consume that every day,” Ngeth said.
Fresh chopped herbs and vegetables are also key ingredients. They balance the heat and funkiness of other ingredients, like Prahok – a steak sauce made from fish paste.
“It balances out the flavor and the taste,” Ngeth said. "We want our aroma, we want our flavor, we want our smell, we want to wear it when we walk out of here, so that's how it is."
Customers rave about the house specialty stuffed chicken wings, a labor-intensive dish where the meat is de-boned and stuffed with a mixture of chicken, beef, noodles and bamboo shoots.
First-time customers Kevin and Kelley Castillo said every bite was bold and unique.
"It's so good - absolutely love it,” Kevin said. “The coconut chicken is perfect."
Kelley added, "Especially adding the pickles. It had a cool texture to it and it just added an extra boost of flavor and juice."
Ngeth’s mother dreamed about opening a restaurant and the space is meant to honor her.
"I think she'd cry first out of happiness and I know she'd be proud,” Ngeth said.
Theary Cambodian Foods is located at 2012 S. 320th Street in Federal Way and is open Tuesday – Sunday.
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