SEATTLE — Despite major hurdles facing the wine industry in Washington, it is showing signs of growth.
Wine production has been on the rise for decades in Washington but after a brief dip in 2019 and 2020, it is rebounding. The latest harvest report revealed that 34% more grapes were smashed in the state year over year.
That is largely because of the number of new wineries. In 2022, 20 new wineries were born, according to the Washington State Wine Commission.
"Some wine regions really only specialize in a handful of wines, and I think for a consumer they can find anything they may like here in Washington state,” said Kristina Kelley, Washington State Wine Commission executive director. “I think that's a real competitive advantage."
Kelley said the different microclimates from the cool breeze of the Columbia River to the heat in Walla Walla make Washington’s wine different than just about anywhere in the world.
Washington state has 1,070 licensed wineries, which is second only to California.
More than 80 varieties of wine are harvested on 60,000 acres of vineyards.
"We are seeing an interest not only in the United States but globally of coming into Washington state and investing in our vineyards and our tasting rooms in our state," Kelley said.
The diverse selection is shown off maybe the most in Woodinville, where there are a total of 130 wineries.
Valdemar Estates expanded to Woodinville in 2022. The winemaker opened a tap room in the new Wine Walk Row.
“There's about a half a dozen other tasting rooms in this little Wine Walk area," said Reed Woogerd, director of operations for Valdemar Estates.
Valdemar is Washington’s first internationally-owned winery. The family-owned winery has made wine for 130 years in Rioja Spain. After five generations, the family started making wine in Walla Walla in 2019. CEO Jesus Bujanda, a University of Washington graduate, convinced his father and sister Washington could be the next frontier for the company. After success in Walla Walla, they opened a taproom in Woodinville.
Woogerd said the health and attention of the industry is why they decided to open in Woodinville.
However, the competition and desire for something new are leading to a makeover of the tap room. Led by Woogerd, the company is transforming the taproom into a Tapas restaurant. The restaurant, which will be called Pintxo, opens in September.
Wine is an $8 billion-a-year industry in Washington, according to the Wine Commission.
The biggest challenges it faces include attracting young people to wine when there’s more alcoholic beverage competition than ever.
“The ready-to-drink cocktail phenomena is here," Kelley said. "It has been here for several years. I think it will continue to grow."
The other major challenge is climate change, which is leading to ravaging wildfires that threaten the grapes and the growth of the industry.
Researchers at Washington State University are studying the effects of wildfire smoke. Kelley said they are leading the world in learning about the smoke impacts on vineyards.
All the work is to keep the flavors of red and white alive across the region.